The Fertility of Garden SoilGARDENING is peculiar among the arts in that it is always fluid, never static; and in that it depends for its success, to a great extent, on the condition and composition of the garden soil. It therefore behooves us to know something about soil composition, the maintenance of its fertility, and such things as drainage if the work we put into designing and building our gardens is to produce pleasing results. These things have been mentioned incidentally here and there throughout this book but they deserve, we feel, a chapter all to themselves. The soil problem, in relation to gardening, divides itself into two parts: first, the preconditioning of soil to make it ready for new plantings; second, the maintenance of its fertility after planting has been done. What lies beneath the surface is the measure of success in garden making, to which too little attention is paid. We play with the surface only, and then are surprised at the inadequate results. Take, as an example, a perennial border. If it is to last any time at all, the whole area must be worked to a depth of at least a foot and a half; under lawns our attention should penetrate to a depth of at least a foot, whereas under and around trees and shrubs the soil to be properly built up must be worked to a depth of 2 feet or more. The procedure to be followed
depends on the type of subsoil existing
on the site, that is, the foundation on
which the garden is to be built (for the
topsoil in which plants grow must really
be considered as a part of the garden,
not its foundation). If this subsoil be
made of impervious clay that holds moisture
too long and that is so hard that roots
have difficulty in penetrating into it,
and so sterile as to provide no nourishment
whatever, then a greater depth of topsoil
will have to be provided than if this subsoil
be sandy loam, easily penetrated by roots,
not too retentive of moisture, and capable of
providing a certain amount of plant food.
In the first case underdrainage in the
form of tile lines leading to dry wells or a
storm sewer may have to be provided, and in the
second case some layer of fibrous material, such
as straw, sod, or peat moss, may have to be put
under the topsoil to prevent too rapid
leaching away of moisture and soluble plant food. garden
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