MAKING A LAWN

MAKING A LAWN In this country the making of a lawn is one of the most difficult, most interesting, and most talked about landscape operations. Nearly everybody seems to have a different idea about it. Of course the climate isn't ideal for lawns, we haven't the steady, light moisture that makes Ireland the "Emerald Isle," and we haven't time to wait three hundred years for a lawn to reach its best, as they are said to do in England. A very good lawn can be produced, however, if the soil is prepared properly, the right sort of grasses selected, and good care given it afterward.

Lawn grasses are shallow rooted and feed near the surface. Continual cutting means that all surplus growth is being constantly removed and never allowed to decay and return its fertility to the soil. You must, therefore, provide plenty of easily available fertilizer near the surface. Spent mushroom soil is the best, although compost, stable manure, or commercial humus may be used. All these are high in nitrogen and organic material which help to retain moisture in a sandy soil and aerate a clayey one. Spread a generous layer of one of these materials, say 2 to 3 inches, over the subgrade already prepared.

If stable manure is used, this positively must be well rotted, for otherwise it will be full of live weed seeds which will spring up immediately to plague you. The actual nutritive value of this humus snaking material is relatively low, so commercial fertilizers are added. Acid phosphate (16 to 20 per cent) is applied at the rate of 25 to So pounds per thousand square feet of lawn area; or bone meal at the same rate. The use of a complete fertilizer is not advisable at this stage, for much of it would be of little use. Most of the nitrogen, which is the costly part of it, would escape before the young grass was ready to use it. On this layer of humus and fertilizer spread a thin layer of topsoil, say 3 inches. Grass likes a slightly acid soil, so do not use lime unless the soil at your disposal is strongly acid. Then use only enough to counteract this acid tendency somewhat and make the soil more friable.

On this layer, which, of course, has been carefully cleaned of sticks, stones, and old bottles, spread a layer of finely sifted topsoil of the best quality, bringing the whole area up to a level about 2 inches above the finished grade stakes. (It will settle during the first winter to the proper levels.) After this has been raked and rolled thoroughly with a water weighted roller of about 250 pounds, apply some quick acting fertilizer, such as sheep manure or one of the complete plant foods, at the rate of 2 5 to 30 pounds per thousand square feet. Rake again, filling up depressions and removing any hummocks which may have appeared, and roll again lightly. The lawn area is now ready for seeding. More about seeding...

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